Executive SummaryFirst let me say that I am not a professional. I am just a hobbyist and probably not a very good one at that. This review is rather long but I’m hoping to give you an idea of what you may need and what to expect in order to make your experience a good one.That said, this is a great addition to my SawStop PCS 27” Professional Cabinet Saw. It arrived when they said it would and was well packed. All of the parts were there and the table was oiled to keep rust from forming. The new cast iron top installed easily and fit well. The fence is well built and easily adjustable. The cutout for the router lift appears to be a standard size but does not offer a variety of mounting holes for other brands of lifts. As usual, the SawStop instructions were well written and illustrated. They were kind of hidden in the box but I found them anyway. Only the parts highlighted in the photo and described in the product description are included.Pros:Well builtExceptional workmanshipExcellent fit and finishEasy to installAdded convenienceCons:Need to buy or make an additional insertFence can only face the end of the router table (edge with t-track slots)Work surface is only ~8 1/8 inches from the center of the bit to the edge of the router tableDetailsAlong with the In-Line Router Table, you will need an additional insert and may need new rails as well.RAILS - Part numbers RT-TGP2-L-R36A and TGP2-R36A2 Amazon ASIN # B07HJVK7F7: If your saw was manufactured before January 2018 it probably is not ready for the new router table. The modified rails have new holes for the new cast iron parts and the very ends of the rails have been notched to accommodate the two slots in the router table (see my pics). You can go to the SawStop website to find out if your saw is router-ready. If your rails are not compatible you can either modify yours or buy new ones from SawStop. Curiously, SawStop does not currently provide a pattern or dimensions so you can easily modify them yourself; shame on you SawStop. On the assumption that the new holes had to be in exactly the right position for everything to fit together perfectly, I bought new ones.INSERT - Part number RT-ICW Amazon ASIN # B07HJQNVR7: Once you remove the black particle board part of the table you will have a 8.25” gap between the existing cast wing on the saw and the location of the new router table. Here you have two choices. You can either buy the cast iron insert or make your own. You could make one from scrap lumber or you could cut down the black laminated particle board insert which is currently part of the tabletop. I chose to buy the cast iron insert because of its functionality and because it looks way more cool. BONUS: if you buy the cast iron insert you can use the black laminated particle board and original (now unused) legs as an out-feed table for either your saw or your router table. In the back rail, behind the table saw, are three pre-drilled holes so you don’t even need to drill any new ones. Three 5/16” mounting bolts, two 3/8” bolts (for the legs), and two hinges were all the hardware I had to supply. I converted mine into an outfeed table for the saw and counted it as a win. Yay me!ROUTER TABLE – Part number RT-TGP Amazon ASIN # B07DQYP1L1: As stated above, only the parts in the description or highlighted in the photo are included. The router lift definitely is not included. I wanted this accessory but read the reviews just to be sure I wasn’t doing something dumb. I have no way to reliably measure how flat the top is but one review stated it was at .003”. Since this is about the thickness of lightweight (20#) copy paper, it caused me absolutely no concerns at all. There were no burrs or rough edges anywhere on this piece. The casting and milling were excellent. Workmanship on this part was nothing less than you would expect from SawStop.The opening for the router lift (plate) appears to be standard and is 11.75” x 9.25”. The location of this opening puts the center of the router bit at approximately 8.125” from the leading edge of the table (edge with t-track slots). Included with the kit are 10 adjustment screws which are used to level the router lift by threading in from the bottom. Clearly this would work very well with the SawStop lift but I chose another brand. Although my lift easily dropped into the opening there was no way for me to secure it. My lift has a mounting screw hole in each of the corners but the table did not have provisions for accepting the screws. I knew it might not be a direct fit so no complaints there. I ended up having to file the inside corners of the cutout so I could secure my lift. And yes, it did hurt just a bit having to file my new $500 cast iron table top.THE FENCE is extruded aluminum and well made. It has an adjustable guard over the bit as well as provisions for assorted T-Track accessories. Two sturdy particle board fence faces are included and are independently adjustable. Two 13.25” long extruded shims are included for use when jointing. No tools are required to adjust the guard, fence faces, shims, or to change fence location on the table. The fence can be adjusted approximately 2.75” back from the center of the bit to approximately 1.75” forward of the bit center. No feather boards are included.THE LEGS. The power switch can mount on either leg. I chose the left leg so the switch for the router would be in the same location as the switch for the saw, to my left. The long machine screw is for holding a wrench for the SawStop router lift and the short screw holds the bracket for the tool used to raise and lower the lift.Up to this point I’ve told you about the mechanics of the saw, the things I would want to know if I were considering this upgrade. What parts do I need? How do they fit together? Compatibility, etc. So are there some negatives? Yep, and at least one that I think is a rather big one.First, it is not real apparent that you will need an additional insert. A little research will get you there but it shouldn’t be that difficult.Second, while I like the fence, I have not found any provisions for securely storing the two extruded shims. That doesn’t mean it doesn’t exist, it just means I haven’t found it yet. More important is the limited usefulness of the fence. The fence is clearly designed to face the end of the router table, away from the table saw blade as you would expect, but cannot face any other direction.But why would you want it to face forward, backward, or toward the sawblade? Well that leads to what I think is the biggest short coming of this router table. In my opinion, it’s too small. From the center of the bit to the edge of the table (edge with t-track slots) is only 8.125 inches. That’s not very much. It’s wide enough to treat the edges of 1x4s and 1x6s but offers little support for raising panels or working the ends of drawer fronts. Why not make this casting 24.25” wide and eliminate the need for the additional insert? Then the router could be moved back a few more inches, say to 12” to bit center. On the other hand, if the fence were somehow made more versatile perhaps it could be mounted anywhere on the table. For example, if I were to place the fence between the router bit and the end of the table (edge with t-track slots) so it was facing the sawblade I’d have a huge work surface for raising panels. Could I just use the table saw fence?” Sure I could but then I would have tear down my saw set up and mount my sacrificial face to the fence. Once I’m done, or when I want to use my saw again, I would have to move the fence back and re-measure everything to get back to original set up. I don’t want to have to change my saw set up until I’m done with it. Who does? If the router fence could be placed so it was between the router and the back rail I would have a very long outfeed table to slide my work along. Conversely, placing the fence between the front rail and router and facing it toward the back would give me a huge infeed table. Could I just build some jigs or fixtures or stand-alone outfeed tables or get some rollers or… Of course I could. There are lots of ways to make things more difficult but there are few ways to make things easier. Design the fence to mount anywhere on the table top, perhaps using magnets, and thing just got easier for all of us.Conclusion: Would I buy this again? Absolutely! Regardless of the short comings, I have a functional set up that I like. It frees up some work space in my garage. We all know how quickly a woodworking project can consume every flat surface in our shop. It’s super convenient. Once set up, I don’t have to change a thing because the center of the router bit is 38.125” from my saw blade. Also, I no longer need to store a router table or my old Delta shaper and that means just a little more space for a new woodworking tool. Don’t let my perceived negatives scare you off, just be aware of them. This is a great set-up!